Thursday, August 27, 2015

'New For Now', at the Rijksmuseum:

The September issue of Vogue magazine, edited by Anna Wintour, has descended upon Amsterdam–finally. It's gorgeous as ever, and it's one of the best of the past decade; its visuals are glamorous, transcending, and certainly evocative of desire, which is of course, their intention. And as usual, Grace Goddington has styled the main spreads most formidably. Tucked away in the southwest corner of the Rijksmuseum, here in Amsterdam, is its first fashion exhibition since its reopening in 2013: New For Now. The exhibition traces the emergence of fashion magazines in Europe, concentrating mostly on prints from the nineteenth century, with traces of the eighteenth sprinkled alongside the former. No imagery in the photographical sense is to be found within its framework; rather, the exhibition propels its visitors back to these centuries through prints that explicitly focus on the fashions of those times–with a heavily accent on the Victorian. Taught, restrained, and tight at the waist seems to have been the name of the game during that era–petticoats, corsets, chemises, and crinolines then dominated women's fashion, in fluctuating waves. Suzy Menkes opened the exhibition this summer; glamorous Amsterdam really does exist.